Application Tips
Concrete Acid Stain


Bleach plus Hydrochloric Acid will produce a poisonous gas!
Muriactic Acid will eliminate the minerals that are needed for acid etching.
A floor that has been acid cleaned previously will take the stain
unevenly or not as dark as it should or not at all!


It is always recommended that a small out-of-the-way section of your project be tested to see if the desired reaction occurs. If it does not, you probably have surface contaminants on your slab.

A new concrete slab must have cured for five (5) weeks. The optimum time to stain in a new home is after all construction (taping, bedding, texturing, and painting) is completed and just prior to the baseboards being affixed. We recommend that you protect your new slab during the construction phase with plastic, paper, cardboard, plywood, or sheet rock covering as the initial cleaning step will be much easier. All laborers should be advised that the slab will be the finished floor. Sheet rock mud cleans up easily, however, primer over spray will be tough and glue will need stripper.

If scoring is desired, giving the impression of stone or tiles, we suggest that it be done within three to four days after the slab is poured, and we suggest that the scoring groove be no deeper than 1/8 inch.  Deeper grooves will collect dirt. Wide grooves ¼" look better than skinny lines. Another option is to grout the grooves for a more finished look.


Wash the concrete surface, as it must be clean and free of paints, wax grease, dirt and other surface contaminants. Do not acid wash or use Clorox bleach or heavy alkali cleaners. Tri sodium phosphate (TSP) and Citrus Strip are excellent mild all-purpose cleaners (available at hardware or janitorial supply stores) and when mixed with water, can be used to clean the slab by scrubbing with a long handled stiff brush or floor scrubbing machine and then wet vacuumed.

Protect all walls with tape and paper. Do not allow the stain to touch any wood or metal.


Generally, you will mix equal parts stain with equal parts water (50%-50%). You can apply the mixture with a brush, or sponge; however, we suggest that you consider using an all-plastic garden (insecticide) pump-up sprayer (no metal parts) as you can control volume much easier and remember that (VOLUME EQUALS DEPTH OF COLOR).

Make sure all container lids are tight and shake vigorously before using. Put the water in the spray container, and then add equal parts stain. Close the lid, pump up the pressure and begin randomly spraying the mixture on the floor by holding the nozzle of the wand approximately 18 inches from the floor. Try to avoid precise back and forth motions. You should apply the mixture leaving full moisture short of puddles. Try not to leave puddles as puddle edges hold more moisture (Volume equals depth of color). As you apply, there may be varying degrees of fizzing and there will not be a lot of color. Let the floor dry completely.

Drying time will depend on porosity, temperature, humidity and volume, but it generally takes several hours. Do not walk on the floor while it is wet or damp. Do not remove the residue that is left from the chemical reaction.

Using the same procedure as mentioned above, apply the second application. Again allow the floor to dry completely. You will notice darker tones of color appearing at this time.


After the floor has completely dried, scrub off the residue with a long handled medium stiff, bristle brush and water with ammonia or baking soda to neutralize acid residues. Remove the water/residue mixture from the floor by squeegee and a wet vacuum. Allow the floor to dry completely.

STEP FOUR - WAX OR SEAL- Wax is just like shining shoes.

Kemiko Wax is best applied with a heavy floor machine and three attachments, a stiff natural bristle brush (if available), or a burnish pad to apply wax and a buffing or polish pad.

To begin, spread a smooth light coating of wax out from the walls (2-3 inches) and in the corners out to the radius of the floor machine attachment. Put on no more than ¼ cup of wax on the floor in the center of the first 3 to 4 foot square. It will appear wet and dull. Immediately work the wax by spreading and burning it in with the burnish pad attachment (this may take 4-5 minutes). Move to the next 3-4 foot quadrant and repeat the step only after the wax in the preceding area has turned to a slight glare and the wax ridges have disappeared. Mineral spirits will soften any ridges or excess wax allowing it to be spread and worked in.

When you have completed the application phase, change to the medium bristle brush or buffing pad attachment and buff the entire floor including your original hand waxed areas. After buffing, if greater protection is desired, repeat the first phase applying a thin second coat. Then rebuff. If a slightly higher sheen is desired, buff with the white polishing pad.

If you have chosen to use Kemiko Clear Sealer instead of Kemiko Wax, it can be applied by an airless sprayer or a low nap paint roller. Two coats of sealer will almost always be necessary and sometimes a third with at least 4 to 5 hours of drying time between coats. When rolling 2nd or 3rd coats, use the low nap or even a sponge mop to avoid bubbles, and apply thin coats.